Baby Bunting Star
In short: this pattern is based on this pattern for a doll –> http://www.crochetville.com/community/topic/112059-twinkle-twinkle18baby/
After translating the pattern into danish, I also changed it into a larger model, with a few differences that make it appropriate for a newborn baby.
This is the first video I did (meaning, this is not my pattern)
j: join with chain stitch
dc: double crochet
hdc: half double crochet
ch: chain stitch
increase: 2 stitches in same stitch
Decrease: yarn over, insert the hook in the next st and draw up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2, yarn over and insert the hook in the next st, draw up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops (3 loops on hook) yarn over and pull through 2, yarn over and pull through 2.
Round 1 ch3, 9dc in the 3rd ch from the hook (10 sts), t
Round 2 ch4, (increase in next 1 sts, ch1) repeat untill the last st, 2 dc in the last st, 1 dc into the point where the ch3 starts (20 sts, 5 ch1-spaces)
Note Every row starts with ch4 and ends with a dc into the start of this chain to join the round. Also note to not work into the ch-spaces.
Round 3 (increase in the next st, 1dc in next 2 sts, increase in the next st, ch 1, skip the next ch-space) repeat all the way around, remember the note
Round 4 (increase in the next st, 1 dc, increase in the next 2 sts, 1 dc, increase in the next st, ch1, skip the next ch-space) repeat all the way around, remember the note
Round 5: (increase in the next st, 1 dc in the next 2 sts) repeat until the ch-space, skip the ch-space. repeat all the way around, remember the note
Round 6 (increase in the next st, 1 dc in the next 12 sts, increase in the next st, ch1, skip the ch-space) repeat all the way around, remember the note
Round 7 (increase in the next st, 1 dc in every st until 1 st from the ch-space, increase in the next st, ch1, skip the ch-space) repeat all the way around, remember the note
Continue repeating round 7 until you have the desired size. I talk more about this in the video, but on mine I kept crocheting until every side had 32 stitches and was ~ 11 inches
Row 1 and 2
ch3, 1 dc in each st, t
Decrease in the first 2 sts, 1 dc in each st until the last 2 sts, decrease in the last 2 sts
Repeat row 3 until there are 4 sts on the row
1 dc, decrease in the next 2 sts, 1dc
cut the yarn and sow in the end.
The back pentagon
The sleeves are crocheted in the same way as the points, but they have to not be attached to any pentagons yet.
ch as many sts, as there are sts on the edge of your pentagon.
Work back and forth just like you did on the other points.
Start: ch 30
Round 1: ch3, 1 dc in each st on the ch, 4 dc in the last st. Turn the chain and work down the back of the starting chain. 4 dc in the last st, j
All subsequent rows
ch3, 1 dc in every st, t (remember to turn!!!! – please see the video if this is confusing)
Continue working back and forth until the hoodie is as wide at the bottom as the edge of your pentagons
Crochet it all together with sc. I did this with a contrast yarn (the base yarn is dark and the assembly yarn is light) but you can do this with whatever yarn you want. If you choose to sow the star together instead, be aware that you will have raw edges.
Sow the hood to the back pentagons last free edge.
Put the front on top of the back, leaving the free edge in front of the hood (this is the neck-opening)
Place a sleeve on either side. It should look like this (but note that I am still missing the two rows of dc on the front edges in this picture)
Crochet along the sides, sticking the hook through both sides of the fabric, In the 3 sts at the points, do: (1hdc, 1dc, 1hdc) in the center st in order to make a nice point.
I also crocheted sc along the top, in order to make it a little neater.
The result should hopefully look like this(sans watermelon-baby):